Folded Squares Cardigan
I recently visited one of my favorite sources of inspiration: Kinokuniya, a remarkable Japanese bookstore in midtown Manhattan. There, I unearthed Tomoko Nakamichi’s beautiful and aptly titled sewing book, “Pattern Magic 2.” And at that moment, the seed for our Folded Squares Cardigan was planted!
Under the intriguing heading, “Wearing a Square,” Nakamichi outlines a pattern for a cardigan that consists of a big “T” with its outer top corners folded inward. Gears turning, I set out to try the template in knitted form, using garter stitch and Habu Textile’s incredible Dyed Bamboo.
The pattern may seem a bit like origami, but instead of crisp, angular paper, Dyed Bamboo is more like a jellyfish! As lovely as it is amorphous, this yarn tends to expand and shift and have a life of its own.
And although this makes securing exact measurements a bit challenging, I encourage you to embrace this yarn and silhouette for what it is: an easy-to-make, incredibly slinky, soft, and elegant affair! – Kristy
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Kristina McGowan. Click here to see even more of Kristina’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoFoldedSquaresCardigan, and #PurlSohoBurnish. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 2 skeins of Habu’s Dyed Bamboo, 100% bamboo; approximately 850, (930, 1090, 1180, 1275, 1375) yards required. I used the color Silver.
OR
- 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4) skeins of Purl Soho’s Burnish, 100% rayon from bamboo; approximately 850, (930, 1090, 1180, 1275, 1375) yards required.
You will also need…
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 24, 32- or 47-inch circular needles
Please Note: Habu’s Dyed Bamboo and Burnish are no longer available but choose from one of our other sport weight yarns. And be sure to check your gauge!
Gauge
Before blocking: 24 stitches and 44 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
After blocking: 20 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
Stitch and row counts given in the pattern reflect final measurements after blocking.
Note: Whatever yarn you use to make this pattern, be sure to block your swatch and make sure you’re getting the correct ‘after blocking’ gauge.
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54)
- Finished Chest Circumference: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54) inches
- Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 9 (9, 9 ½, 9 ½, 9 ½, 9 ½) inches
- Length from Underarm to Bottom Sleeve Edge: 6 ¾ (6 ¾, 7 ¼, 7 ¼, 7 ¼, 7 ¼) inches
SAMPLE: Size 38
Notes
A garter stitch “ridge” is a horizontal corrugation formed by knitting two rows. Counting ridges is an easy way to determine how many rows you have knit without having to count as you work. If you find this confusing, just multiply the number of ridges given by two, and that is how many rows you should knit. For example, 40 ridges is 80 rows.
Bind off all stitches as follows: *K2tog tbl (through the back loop), place stitch back on left needle, repeat from *.
Pattern
Fronts and Back
Cast on 260 (270, 290, 300, 310, 320) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Knit every row until you have 40 (45, 50, 54, 58, 63) garter stitch ridges [see Notes, above].
Divide Fronts and Back
Bind off 90 (90, 95, 95, 95, 95) stitches for Left Front, knit until there are 80 (90, 100, 110, 120, 130) stitches on right needle for Back, join second ball of yarn and bind off remaining 90 (90, 95, 95, 95, 95) stitches for Right Front. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitch.
Continue Back
Knit every row over center 80 (90, 100, 110, 120, 130) stitches until you have 81 (81, 85, 85, 85, 85) garter ridges from the bind-off rows.
Bind off all stitches. Cut yarn and pull it through the remaining stitch.
Sleeves
Note: Make two identical sleeves.
Cast on 60 (60, 66, 66, 66, 66) stitches.
Knit every row until you have 30 (30, 33, 33, 33, 33) garter ridges.
Row 1 (right side): K1, slip 1, k1, psso (pass slipped stitch over), knit to last 2 stitches, slip stitch just worked back to left needle and pass second-to-last stitch over and off needle, slip stitch back to right needle, knit last stitch. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2: Knit.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 4 stitches remain.
Next Row (right side): K1, k2tog, k1. [3 stitches]
Next Row: K1, k2tog. [2 stitches]
Next Row: k2tog. [1 stitch]
Cut yarn and pull it through last stitch.
Finish
Weave in ends and block all three pieces. Block by submerging them fully in water, gently squeezing out the excess water, and laying them flat to dry (shaping to finished measurements).
With the wrong sides facing up, position the top points of each Sleeve under each side of the “T,” as shown in the schematic in the Notes section, above.
Starting at the base of one Sleeve point, whipstitch the Sleeve’s top point to the underside of the T-shape, shown in the schematic as a bold line.
Sew the Sleeve’s underside seams together. For tips, visit our Seaming Garter Stitch Tutorial.
Fold the Cardigan along the schematic’s dotted lines and whipstitch the body’s side seams to finish.
Weave in the ends and enjoy your Folded Squares Cardigan!
This is stunning with a absolutely simplistic design that has such an elegant look. This tunic could be worn anywhere and be created in many colors and designs (ex. such as color blocking, different color sleeves, different color body).
Thanks for posting and I can not wait to create it.
Thanks a lot, Loir-Lynette!
Next step for me, figure out where to add to the bottom and fold up to create pockets.
This would be lovely in a wool, too. Fantastic. Thank you for the easy pattern.
Beautiful sweater! Simple and elegant
Do you have suggestions for a less expensive yarn?
Hi Thea, thanks a lot! Purl Soho’s Mulberry Merino would also be a lovely choice for this project! It also knits up beautifully and you would need about 4 hanks of it. Thanks for writing!
Kristy
While I love the sheen of this Habu bamboo, I agree with Thea — it’s such a pricey yarn. Will the Mulberry Merino drape as beautifully?
Hi Lolo,
Yes, I think the Mulberry Merino would be a gorgeous choice for this project too!
Thanks for writing!
Kristy
Beautiful work! I’m normally pretty liberal with my yarn substitutions, but this soft cardigan looks perfect for the Habu bamboo. I’m off to order it!
Wonderful! Thanks, Ophelie!
This is the first knitting project I have ever seen that makes me want to learn to knit…..now! Stunner.
Hi Judy! That’s so great to hear! Thanks a lot for writing in!
Kristy
What a stunning design – simple, elegant and feminine! The yarn looks so silky and I am absolutely in love with this color! Thank you so much for sharing!
This will be on my fall knit list, but I think I may try it, adding a couple of inches-out of rayon fabric as well. Would have a lovely fall and super simple to make in an afternoon.
what a gorgeous pattern, and seems so easy… another on my ‘to do’ list 🙂
Simple lines, simple pattern, very elegant!
Thank you for continuing to feed our interest!
this looks like a great pattern. So wearable and so simple to make! Thanks for the pattern!
What is the yarn weight of the Habu Bamboo? Worsted? DK? Other? I am thinking of trying to substitute a less expensive yarn. Thank you. I love the pattern. I’m sure it will be a favorite.
Hi Suzi,
The Habu Bamboo is in the sport weight range (in garter stitch, I got 6 stitches per inch on a size 4 needle to start). But it’s important to note that this particular yarn tends to grow a bit in size after you get it wet and block it, and that the measurements can change after you block it. The gauge I measured after blocking was 5 stitches to the inch, which is more typically aligned with a DK weight. Substituting a variety of yarns for this project would be easy to do, and to follow the measurements of the pattern, you just want to make sure that you’re getting the “after blocked” gauge of 20 sts and 36 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch. If you find a yarn that you’d like to substitute and work up a swatch of it to see what your numbers are, I’d be glad to answer any further questions you may have. The simple shape makes such adjustments very easy to do. Thanks for writing! Kristy
I love this but I am plus size. How would I go about increasing this pattern?
Hi Jeanie and Jlori,
We typically do not resize our patterns, but this particular pattern is simple enough that if you write to me (kristina@purlsoho.com) and send me your measurements, I’d be happy to work with you to figure things out. Thanks for writing!
Kristy
Gorgeous pattern! It’s so clever and elegant, and it’s a perfect remedy for the itch to make a sweater I’ve been having.
I’m looking to use some stash yarn, do you think that tosh merino light would be around the right gauge, or should I try something more toward sport or dk weight first? My gauge tends to be pretty tight. Thanks!
Hi Mary,
Tosh Merino Light would be beautiful, but yes it’s likely you’ll get a finer gauge than the pattern calls for (when substituting yarn for this pattern, it’s important to make sure you’re getting the ‘after blocked’ gauge). Given the simplicity of the pattern, if you’d like to work up a swatch in the Tosh and see what gauge you’re getting, I’d be glad to run numbers with you and see what adjustments could be made. Thanks for writing! Kristy
Lovely knit. What weight of yarn have you used for this cardigan? And what other types of fibres do you think would suit its style?
Thanks, Sarah! Habu Bamboo is a sport weight yarn. I think the project would work really well with any yarn that has a nice drape. Purl Soho’s Mulberry Merino is a favorite and I think would be beautiful. Anzula’s For Better or Worsted would also be really nice. Good luck and thanks a lot for writing!
Kristy
Wonderful design! I live in Australia what ply is Habu Bamboo?
Hi Jennifer!
The Habu Bamboo is a 5ply yarn and blocks to around an 8-10ply.
Thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Yarn is in beautiful shade and nice texture.
Your creativity and style originality are amazing and refreshing! Thank you for this lovely pattern!
That design is wonderful. I, though, need a larger finishd bust. Reccomendations on increasing finished chest? I need another 10″. Thank you
Beautiful cardigan, and the yarn is gorgeous! Is this Dyed Bamboo the same as Habu XS32 20/18 Bamboo Yarn? Just trying to figure out the different colors available!
Hi Angela, yes! That does seem to be the same yarn, simply offered in a lower yardage per skein. Thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Hi Angela and Kristina,
Just checking – are you certain it’s the xs32? I calculated yards per ounce compared to the Habu site and it seems the xs-24 matches (both 80 yards per ounce), while the xs32 is 55 yards per ounce (but one of the only weights that comes in different colours). I’m also exploring my colour options…
Cheers,
Sam
Hi Sam!
You’re absolutely right, the Habu bamboo that we carry is closest to the xs24! (http://habutextiles.com/XS-24). The xs32 is very similar and if you use that, you would just need to make sure that you’re getting the same gauge in order to work the pattern, going up or down a needle size as needed. Thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Thank you for such a beautiful design . I love everything about it! Oh, I use that bind off all the time and it’s the best. Always looks perfect. Gotta go and look at those yarn colors.
Hi Karen! Thanks so much! And yes! The bind off is one of my favorites too! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
My niece is getting married this fall and I have been looking for a shawl to make my mother. I think this may be the perfect alternative as it is flowy and elegant and will “stay put”. I am concerned about the length of the sleeves. I am a bit confused as to where to measure/adjust length. Can you tell me the measurements to determine a shoulder to wrist length. If 38 is the finished bust size then I will be making that.
Thank you for a wonderful pattern!
Hi Maria,
Congratulations to your niece and that’s so great that you’ll be making something for your Mom! Part of what I found so appealing about the shape and fit of this cardigan was its ease and lack of structure. The fit of the sleeves is slightly unconventional, in that (depending on the fit around your shoulders) the top points of the sleeves will likely fall on your body like a dropped shoulder (as you can see in one of our photos), and this makes predicting what your exact measurement will be slightly tricky. For the sample, which is the size 38, the top point of the sleeve to the cuff measures approximately 15 inches, after blocking, and the yarn does tend to grow a bit. One thing you might want to try if you’d like to be able to have a bit more control over the final length of your sleeves, would be to work them using a provisional cast on. This would allow you to unzip the cast on edge, pick up those live stitches and add more length if you end up wanting it. We have a great tutorial on our site on how to work a provisional cast on if you’ve never done one and would like to try. I hope this helps and wish you the best of luck with the project!
Kristy
Do you know what amount of ease the model is wearing? Having trouble deciding what size to make.
Hi Francis,
Our model is wearing the size 38, and the garter stitch does tend to drape quite contracted and openly at the front with the bamboo. I hope this helps and please let me know if you have further questions/concerns.
Kristy
My kind of knitting, a simple pattern with the yarn being the star!
I’m just a little confused about the seaming. Is this a whipstitch or mattress stitch? I thought the whipstitch was more of a “loop over the top”. Or am I really confused!
Thanks for a lovely pattern – looking forward to trying it once I get unconfused!
Hi Betty! Thanks for your question! And for the opportunity it gives me to clarify! To sew the tops of the sleeves in place and the side body seams, you’ll use whipstitch (or any preferred seaming method). I lined the pieces together and neatly whipstitched them along the edges. But to sew the underside sleeve seams together (the garter stitch lines up perfectly there) I used our Seaming Garter Stitch tutorial, where the mattress stitch is indeed used. I hope this helps clear up any confusion and thanks for writing in!
Kristy
I have some Rowen Panama in my stash. It has great drape. Do you think this might work?
Hi Olivia! Do you know what gauge you’d be getting with the Panama? For the pattern, you’d just need to make sure that you’re getting the ‘after blocked’ gauge for the measurements to work. Thanks for writing!
Kristy
Too bad you do not allow to SAVE instead of printing, most companies offer this .
Hi Veila,
Very sorry that you’ve been having problems! We do indeed provide a way for you to download and save the pattern (both as a pdf and you can also email the pattern to yourself and save it that way). When you click on the “Print” icon, it should take you to another page, at the top of which you should see, the options, “Print,” “Pdf” and “Email.” Please let us know if you’re still getting stuck — we’re here to help! Thanks, Kristy
So beautiful! I Can’t wait to make it. Will two skeins be enough for a large?
Thanks 😀
Hi MaryAnn!
Two skeins will be more than enough for the larger size! Thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Just purchased the Habu Bamboo in silver and cannot wait to get started on this project! Thanks for a truly elegant and simple pattern.
Hi Lolo — that’s so exciting! Thanks a lot!
Kristy
I’ve never used circular needles before they sound a little confusing. I will give them a try though I like this pattern. Than you!!
Hi Sandy! I know circular needles can seem a bit daunting if you’ve never used them before, but really they’re just two straight needles attached together by a cord, and maybe thinking of them that way can help. When you have a large number of stitches to cast on (as you do for this cardigan) that long cord just helps keep everything in place. Thanks a lot for writing and sending good luck,
Kristy
I wonder if you might try knitting your tension square on circulars first to get used to it.
That’s a great idea, Carol!
I see a reference to the schematic , but I didn’t see one. Did I miss it? Absolutely beautiful and simple design and to repeat someone else’s comment. It’s so simple yet the choice of fiber takes it from simple to special. Love all the Purl projects.
Hi Laurie!
The schematic should appear in the “Sizes” section of the pattern. If you’re not able to find it or see it, you can send me your email address and I’d be glad to mail it to you as an attachment (kristina@purlsoho.com).
Thanks for writing in,
Kristy
I bought some mulberry silk yarn for a shawl–the yarn is the prettiest I’ve ever seen. Wonderful place to shop!
Hi Mary,
I couldn’t agree with you more! It’s one of my favorite yarns! Thanks a lot for writing!
Kristy
Why must you use a circular needle? I like to knit with on two needles with one tucked underarm.
Hi Christine,
The number of stitches that you cast on to work the Fronts/Body of this cardigan is just quite high and that makes using a circular needle much easier. The stitches would be very difficult to fit on a normal set of straight needles. Thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Kinokuniya and Purl Soho were two of the places on my must-see list last December when I went to my first Vogue Knitting! The others were Marimekko, and, right around the corner from you, Gudrun Sjoden.
Would like to make this but modifying it to be wider and shorter…as I am wider and shorter. 🙂
Hi Margie! That’s exciting that you got to visit those great places! Good luck with your modifications and thanks a lot for writing!
Kristy
Can you suggest a cotton or similar non allergenic yarn,
I seem to have a problem with bamboo, wool, alpaca,
Most fibers.
Would love to make this folded squared cardigan
Thank you
Susan
Hi Susan,
Have you ever worked with Cascade’s Pima Cotton? That might be a lovely choice. You may have to experiment a bit to see what needle size would get you the needed gauge, but since the piece is all in garter stitch, it shouldn’t be too hard to adjust. Please let us know if you have additional questions as you find the yarn substitution you like best!
Kristy
I love garter stitch and this pattern shows why. Classic style, hugely and beautifully understated.
I live in France and can’t easily obtain the specified yarn. Please tell me what length of yarn would make up a skein of this yarn. A skein is not a european measure. Yarn here is sold in 50gr or 100gr balls with the length specified. I can convert from length to weight without difficulty…and thus find a worthy equivalent.
Thank you
Hi Margaret,
The Habu Bamboo yarn is approximately 269 grams per hank, and you’d need approximately 300 (330, 385) grams for the sizes we provide. I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any further questions! Thanks for writing. Kristy
This is lovely. Does it close? From the images, it looks like its front panels are narrow and do not reach each other. And if that is the case, is there a way to make it wider so it can be closed in front with a decorative pin? Thank you!
Hi Joani,
Thanks for writing! With the drape and fit of the sample in the Habu Dyed Bamboo, in size 38, the fronts do naturally hang open, though they could be brought together with a pin as you suggest! Something you might try, if you’d like to have more control over the final length of the fronts, is to use a provisional cast on when you cast on your stitches for the Fronts/Body. This would allow you, when you’re done, to unzip the cast on stitches, pick up and add more length, even having the fronts overlap if you’d like. I hope this helps and let me know if you have any further questions! Thanks, Kristy
I love this but I crochet rather than knit. Do you know of a way I could crochet this rather than knitting? Thanks!
Hi Peita,
We currently don’t offer this pattern in a crocheted version — though it’s a great thought and definitely something to keep in mind. Thanks a lot for writing!
Kristy
This is a lovely sweater. When I am finished with the one I’m currently knitting I am tempted to knit this one.. What a beautiful and elegant pattern. The yarn is so nice..
Your designs are always so beautifully elegant and this is no exception. I’ve made a number now and been really pleased with all of them. This one drapes perfectly and the sheen of the yarn is so pretty.
My question is – do you think the smallest size can’t be made with one skein?
Thanks – Claire
Hi Claire,
For the sizes we outlined 34 (38, 42) you’ll need two skeins of the Habu, though not by much. Each hank of the bamboo is approximately 760 yards and you’ll need about 850 (930, 1090) to make the cardigan. In grams, that would be 269 grams, using 300 (330, 385)grams.
Thanks for writing,
Kristy
Any suggestions for something to make with the remainder?
Hi Angela,
The drape of the Habu Bamboo makes it particularly beautiful to use for scares and shawls. Think our Checkerboard Lace Scarf pattern would be really lovely to make with any yarn you have left over.
Kristy
I have Jade Sapphire 2 ply silk and cashmere in my stash. Would this be a good substitute?
It is a wonderful pattern. Thanks for making it available.
Hi Rosalind, thanks a lot! That’s a beautiful yarn! In order to follow the pattern, you’d just need to make sure that you were getting the ‘after blocked’ gauge! Good luck and thanks for writing!
Kristy
Can this be made using the 20/12 bamboo sold to make the wedding shawl?
Hi Carolyn,
Yes! That would be a lovely substitute! You would just want to make a swatch and check your gauge, but it should be very similar! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
Thank you for such a great Q&A opportunity. I so want to return to NY and you can bet I’ll be at your shop! So nice of you to be willing to help us expand the size for us big girls!
– “I want it !….”
Merveillous
Because the long first cast-on row is the entire front and neck edge of this cardigan it must be very very elastic, (especially with the bamboo yarn).
I would suggest a provisional cast-on so that at the end of the project, a really stretchy bind-off can be made. (A SEWN bind-of might look nice and unconstructed here!)
Hi Ila, yes! Great suggestion! I tried to find the stretchiest bind off I could — you’re absolutely right!
Kristy
Thank you for this useful tutorial. Very detail. I love it at the very first sight. Can’t wait to make it by my own!
Thanks so much, Mai! Good luck!
An interesting cardigan, but not quite the same as the garment in Pattern Magic 2, which inserts the cut away triangles as underarm gussets.
Hi Gabrielle, you’re absolutely right! Including the triangle underarm gussets shown in the sewn version just seemed a bit too “flying squirrel” to me in the knitted bamboo, but I imagine they would be easy to add! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
I’m going to make the folded squares cardigan. Can I substitute the bamboo yarn for lace?
Hi Sharon! Are you looking to make a piece that is more open and lacy? Substituting lace would not be a problem, but in order to get the measurements of the pattern, you would just need to make sure that you were getting the ‘after blocked’ gauge. Kristy
Beautiful pattern and thank you for sharing.
I have 2 questions:
If I measure 40″ bust, would you recommend I do the 38″ or the 42″
Second
Which mix would you suggest as a substitute :
50% cotton/50% bamboo (like Bamboo Pop)
or
20%wool/80%bamboo (like Debbie Bliss Prima)
Thank you
Hi Barbara! I would recommend the 42″. The garter does tends to contract a bit and I think the extra two inches would be nice.
You’ll want to make sure when substituting yarn that you aim for the after blocked gauge in order to get the same measurements, but I think both the Debbie Bliss Prima and Bamboo Pop should work well. The Prima seems a bit closer to the gauge you’ll need, and if I had to choose, it might be that one.
Thanks for writing in,
Kristy
Are there any pics of the back or sides of cardigan on the model. Would help to understand construction and decide if the style or fit one would like to knit. Thanks.
Hi Steph,
Up in the banner of the pattern, the photos that run along the top, if you click on the arrow that you should see on the right side, you’ll be able to scroll through and see additional views of the sweater, including a side view (which should be the 4th image in the line up). I’d also be glad to answer any construction questions you may have. It is a very relaxed and easy style overall, one that you can liken to a shawl with sleeves, with a wonderful drape around the shoulders. Hope this helps,
Kristy
I really want to make this, could I substitute Madelinetosh Pashmina? I’d like something with some wool for warmth.
Hi Marlene,
The Pashmina is a beautiful yarn, and I think the cardigan would look great made in it. You would just need to knit up a swatch and see what your gauge is, and compare it to the after-blocked gauge of the pattern. If there are differences, it shouldn’t be too hard to figure out how to adjust things. Let us know how it goes — would be glad to answer any further questions.
Kristy